Carrots

Sow seeds directly in the garden or containers. Do not transplant. Try to distribute seed in an even fashion so seeds don’t grow together, use a seed-sower, or thin vigorously to the right space. Carrots need a location that receives full sunlight, soil must be loose, sandy, and airy so that carrot roots can easily push down through the soil. Sow ¼ inch (0,6 cm)deep, 1 to 2 inches (2,5 510 cm) apart in rows 1 foot (30 m) apart. Keep the soil moist with frequent shallow waterings. For small carrot seeds to germinate, the soil mustn’t form a hard crust on top. Carrots are sometimes slow to germinate. They may take 2 to 3 weeks to show leafs.

Cayenne Pepper

Sow 3 to 4 seeds to a pot or across flats. Sow seed ¼ to ½ inch (7-13 mm) deep. Germination soil temperature is 75-95°F (24-35°C); the optimum soil temperature for germinating seed is 85°F (29°C). Germination takes 7 to 10 days at 85°F (29°C) or warmer. Keep the seed starting mix just moist until seedlings emerge. Clip away the weaker seedlings once the strongest seedling is about 2 inches (5 cm) tall. Seedlings started indoors should be kept in a sunny window after germination. Keep the indoor nighttime temperature above 62°F (17°C). Water to keep the seed starting mix from drying. Transfer seedlings to a larger container once they are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) tall; be sure that seedlings have sufficient room for root growth. Transplant peppers into the garden 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost in spring when the soil temperature has risen to at least 65°F (18°C). Young peppers transplanted should be 4 to 6 inches tall. Plants started indoors should be acclimatized to outdoor temperatures before transplants. Set plants outdoors for a few hours each day before transplanting to the garden. Grow peppers in full sun. 

Cherry Tomato

To start tomatoes, sow the seeds 1/4-inch (0,6 cm)  deep in good potting-soil mix six to eight weeks before your last frost. Keep the containers in a warm place at 70 °F (21 °C) until germination occurs, then move them into full sun near a south-facing window. When all danger of frost is past and the plants are about six inches (15 cm) high. Transplant them into a full-sun area of the garden. They should be spaced two or three feet (60 – 90 cm) apart in a well-drained soil amended with a good amount of organic matter.

Courgette

Start your seeds by sowing your seeds directly into the soil, you can start your courgette seeds indoors 4-6 weeks prior to transplanting them outdoors. Grab seed trays, soil-less potting mixture, and your seeds. Place a single seed in each tray, cover with ⅛ inch (0,3 cm) of potting mixture, and water well! These should be placed in an area that gets sunlight and is at least 60 °F (16 °C). When the second set of leaves have sprouted, the courgette are ready to be transplanted outdoors. Transplanting courgette – dig each hole to be slightly larger than the root ball on your plant. Keep 40 inch (75–100 cm) space between each plant. Cover up a zucchini transplant with enough soil to cover the root ball without reaching up the stem. Finish up planting with a heavy watering. Direct seeding in the garden. Sow seeds 2 to 3 inches (5 – 7 cm) deep. Sow in raised hills or inverted hills 3 to 4 seeds set 3 to 4 inches (7 – 10 cm) apart; thin to the two strongest seedlings. Hills or mounds should be 5 inches (12 cm) tall and 20 inches (50 cm) across. This will allow plants to run down the hill away. Inverted hills–which can be used to retain moisture in dry regions–can be made by removing an inch (2,5 cm) of soil from an area.

Cucumber

Thoroughly moisten the seed-starting mix, and then fill the containers with it. Firm the mix but don’t compact it. Place seeds into each small container or each cell of a seed starter. Cover the seed with about ¼ inch (0,5 cm) of soil and gently firm it over the seeds. Water to ensure good seed-to-mix contact. You can use a plant mister or just dribble a stream of water over the top. You don’t need to soak the soil, just moisten the top layer. Place the pots in a warm spot. Keep the mix moist but not soaking wet. If your seed-starting system has a greenhouse top, use it to help hold moisture. Check pots daily. As soon as you see sprouts, remove the covering and place the pots in a sunny window. You can transplant the extras into bigger pots or transplant seedlings to the garden. Cucumber plants should be transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after the last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost and cold damage; Transplant 36 to 60 inches (91 to 152 cm) apart.

Lettuce

Choose a pots for lettuce to grow freely – each lettuce plant requires 4–6 inch (10 – 15 cm) of space and a depth of about 8 inches (20 cm). Pots must have holes on the bottom. Place a saucer underneath the pot to catch draining water. Moisten the soil to prepare it for planting, then fill containers with about 3/4 of pot high. Dig a 4 (10 cm) deep hole and place your seeds inside at about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Limit your seeds to 4 per pot to avoid overcrowding the lettuce as it grows. Take a handful of potting soil and gently sprinkle it over the newly-planted seeds. Fill a spray bottle with water and gently mist the seeds to avoid washing them away. Place your containers in a warm location. Check daily for signs of sprouts. Once sprouts appear. If planning to plant in the garden dig holes in rows 16 inches (40.6 cm) apart, just deep enough to plant the root balls underground. Lift the lettuce seedlings from the seed tray and place them into the holes. Gently pat soil around the roots so that the seedlings stay upright, planted to the same depth they were in the trays. Water the seedlings thoroughly.

Onion

Sow seed in a pot or tray of seed compost. The seeds are small, but try and space them about 0,4 inch (1 cm) apart. Lightly cover with a thin layer of compost then stand pot or tray in water to moisten. When the seedlings are a few inches (6 – 8 cm) tall, prick them out and transplant into fresh compost. Once established, transplant seedlings into the garden, 4 – 6 inches (10 – 15 cm) apart. Alternatively, in spring, plant heat-treated onion sets, into soil that has had large stones and weeds removed. Water newly planted sets and cover immediately with horticultural fleece, to prevent birds from lifting them. Once firmly rooted, the developing crops can be uncovered. Water onions seedling thoroughly. Repeat at regular intervals if the weather is dry. In late summer, draw away earth from the bulbs to expose them to the sun. Harvest after the leaves turn yellow and the stem bends over. Allow leaves to dry before carefully lifting bulbs. For longer keeping – once dried, a convenient way to store onions is to string them up in onions ropes and hang them in a cool, dry, frost-free place.

Peas

Although peas can be started indoors in peat pots for transplanting, they really don’t make the transition well. Choose a sunny, well-drained spot. Use a hoe or spade to make a shallow trench, roughly 8 inches (20 cm) wide and 1 inch (2,5 cm) deep. Sow peas in two parallel lines, spacing the seeds about 4 inches (10 cm) apart. Cover the seeds with soil, water well. The seedlings should appear in one or two weeks.

Spinach

Fill the deep container with soil, add water the soil. Plant a few seeds in each cell, or 1 – 2 inches (2,5 – 5  cm) apart  Cover the seeds with a dry soil. Spinach does best when growing in moist, nitrogen-rich soil. When seeds germinate you need to plant them out 12 – 18 (30 – 45 cm) inches apart. If planting in garden. It’s best to till the soil to a depth of at least 12 inches (30 cm) because spinach has a very deep taproot.

Sweet Pepper

Fill the cells with damp seed starting soil, or pre-moisten the peat pellets. Then place them into the trays. Plant one per cell/pellet. Plant pepper seeds about a 1/4″ – 1/2″ (0,6 – 1,2 cm) deep. Cover the seeds with soil – Fill the holes with soil, then gently press it down to make sure the seeds come in contact with the soil. Don’t compact the soil though, just gently press it down. If the soil is not already wet, then you should add water. It’s best to water from the bottom so you don’t disturb the seeds. Simply pour it into the tray until it’s just above the drainage holes, or about 1/4 of the height of the pellets. Dump out any excess water that hasn’t been absorbed within 15 minutes. Place the clear plastic lid on top of the tray to help keep the soil warm, and ensure that it stays moist. Place the tray in a warm spot – place it in the warmest spot you can. If it’s too cold, it will slow down germination, or the seeds may not grow at all. Transplanting. Pepper plant seedlings hate the cold, and they could be killed if you move them into your garden too early. So, it’s best to wait to transplant them until after all chance of frost is gone, and the soil has warmed up. To harden them, start by placing them outside in the shade for a few hours a day. Then each day, give them a little more sun and time outside. After a few weeks, they will be ready to stay outside for good. They will grow their best when planted in a full sun location. Be sure to plant them in fast draining, rich soil that has plenty of organic matter mixed in. So, plan to space your seedlings 12-18″ (24 – 30 cm) apart in the garden. For best results, plant pepper seedlings slightly deeper than they were in the seed tray or pot.

Tomato

Thoroughly moisten the seed-starting mix, and then fill the containers to within ½ inch (1,2 cm) of the top. Firm the mix but don’t compact it. Place two or three seeds into each small container or each cell of a seed starter. Cover the seed with about ¼ inch (0,5 cm) of soil and gently firm it over the seeds. Water to ensure good seed-to-mix contact. You can use a plant mister or just dribble a stream of water over the top. You don’t need to soak the soil, just moisten the top layer. Place the pots in a warm spot or on top of a heat mat. At this point, the seeds don’t need light. Keep the mix moist but not soaking wet. If your seed-starting system has a greenhouse top, use it to help hold moisture. Or, you can lay some plastic kitchen wrap over the tops of the pots. Check pots daily. As soon as you see sprouts, remove the covering and place the pots in a sunny window or under grow lights, keeping the lights just an inch or two above the tops of the plants. For the strongest, healthiest plants you’ll want just one seedling per pot or cell. Thinning (removing extra seedlings) – select the strongest, healthiest seedling and use a pair of scissors to snip off the others at the soil line. You can transplant the extras into different pots. Wait to transplant your tomato seedlings into the garden until after the average last spring frost date. Be prepared to protect the seedlings with season-extending garden fabric, row covers or plant covers) if a late frost threatens. If all goes well, you’ll be harvesting ripe tomatoes in eight weeks or less.